Saturday, June 24, 2017

The New Chapter

Our last night in the Rai
First of all, I am so glad I didn't post during our last week in Chiang Rai. I was in a very dark place. I'd ride our motorbike all over town and just sob. Our last Sunday there, I took the bike out to run a few errands. 

I cried through our neighborhood. 
 
I always loved the colors on this house
I actually won't miss you, horrible road
I cried at the market. 


I bought some fresh coconut milk, asked to take a picture of the couple who sold it to me, and cried when he made a goofy face. 
A second after I clicked, he lifted up her ponytail and made a face. I missed that shot. Which made me cry.
I held it together while filling up the bike. 
 
On the way home, I drove down my favorite street in town (my favorite because it has these immense old trees shading it, and the road respectfully curves around them). I cried passing a restaurant that our friend is opening there in a few months. I stopped by a temple I’d always meant to visit. I wept a little walking around the grounds, but when I was alone inside the actual temple, I sat on the floor and let it all go until I used up my whole packet of tissues. 

I was sad and bitter, and my thoughts were ugly; it was a good thing I didn't have the opportunity to blog. However, I kept reminding myself that I wouldn't have stayed there if I had the choice. Nick said he wouldn't have stayed for twice our salaries. I agreed.

This is certainly a sight I will never see again.
Nick counting out his final paycheck. Yeah, we were paid in cash.
Packing up & leaving the house for the last time 
Packing up at school
Now, we've been home for a week, and I'm feeling pretty good. For the first few days I walked around in public with a giant grin on my face, smiling stupidly at everyone and everything like I was tripping on some kind of club drug. (Quickly, before I talk about being home, I have to mention the flight. We had a 16-hour flight from Hong Kong to Boston full of rough turbulence. At one point, in the dark over the Pacific Ocean, it was bad enough that people screamed. Sophie cried. It was miserable. I get a sickening twinge in my intestines just remembering it.)

Being back has been very cool so far. My parents' house is soooo very comfortable, and the acoustics are noticeably lovely. My clothes stay clean after one wearing because I'm not drenching them in sour sweat every day. I went running and felt like a delicate little flower with a healthy glow, instead of peeling off clothes that felt like I'd been pushed into a pool and smelled like livestock. When I left here two years ago, I was at the peak of burnout, so I remember it being a lot more paved-over and strip-malled than it is. Massachusetts is greener and more beautiful than I remember it, and it feels good to have a renewed appreciation. We went to school for the last day, and aside from some painfully awkward moments, it felt like being home. We went to the library (!!!) and it was nirvana. I felt my eyes tingle just the slightest bit at the sight of all those books in English.

The culture-shock moments have been fun. I relearned how to drive on the right side of the road without too much trouble. Even after a week, I still have to remind myself that I can drop my toilet paper right there where I'm sitting, which is amusing, mostly because that's been the last habit to go. The food and the drinks have been divine. I have got to rein it in already. I'm realizing that staying at a healthy weight in this country will be like swimming upstream, which I guess isn't a bad thing because that burns a lot of calories, ba-dum-dump. The grocery store is a fun place to go. The choices are staggering (I was almost in tears of joy at the prices of wine), and seeing shelves full of things we had to go all the way to Chiang Mai or Bangkok to get makes me feel like this scene in "Cast Away":
I feel like this several times a day, frankly.
So there you have it. That's a short version of the past two weeks. There is more, but it's been such a whirlwind that that's all I can remember. It is obviously still the honeymoon period, but every once in a while I'll get a tiny glimpse of the dark things I left behind. I am nervous that they will grow bigger until they strangle my optimism. That will be my number one challenge. House hunting has been one of those things. We've looked at four houses with near-painful prices, and three of them looked like they were ready to collapse. We nicknamed one the Murder House. Another was the Haunted House, and the third was just Oh For God's Sake. The fourth one was absolutely stunning, meticulous and magazine-beautiful, but so small that we could never invite anyone over (trust me, this was not the annoying "House Hunters" thing where people are only concerned about entertaining; this house wouldn't be able to fit my parents over for pizza).

So ends the adventure. A friend asked me to rate the experience on a scale of 1-10, and I can say with all honesty that it was an absolute, hands-down 10 out of 10. 
Worldly possessions, 2015
Worldly possessions, 2017

Leaving the US, 2015
Leaving Thailand, 2017

Tuesday, June 6, 2017

This is One of My Favorite Posts

A few nights ago, we sat at dinner (which was a picnic on our bedroom floor, because the kitchen was too hot) and made lists of what we will and won’t miss. I’ve added a few explanations with some of them.

What We Will Miss:
  • The view from our house, sunsets & sunrises, the mountains, banana & mango trees
  • Khao soi and sai ua (Northern Thai sausage, one of the best things I’ve ever eaten)

Sai ua

  • Markets
  • Motorbikes
  • Easy, cheap medical care
  • All four of us going to school together, seeing each other throughout the day
  • Butterflies (the colors and sizes are insane, and they’re everywhere)
  • Geckos in the house (they're noisy, but cute)
  • Fresh bananas
  • Big tropical thunderstorms
  • Monks
Every time I'd run in Chiang Mai, I'd see this. Sigh.
  • House days (in-school field days, similar to Harry Potter houses)
  • Thai national anthem (which we hear every day and will remember for the rest of our lives)
  • Waterfalls, nature, crazy intense shades of GREEN
  • Rice paddies, banana & pineapple fields
  • Time with each other
  • School lunches (delicious Thai food every day-- this really is as good as it sounds)
  • Affordable travel; the prices of everything
  • Hotel pools (it’s a thing here to pay a small fee to use hotel pools for a day)
  • Flower smells
  • Long, the dog (a sweet semi-stray that lives between our house and our landlord’s house)
    • Thai dogs in general
    • Our great landlord, Yves
Long
  • Friendly old Thai people
  • MASSAGES
  • The BTS train in Bangkok, tuk tuks

Things We Won’t Miss:
  • Our hot kitchen
  • Shaky wifi
  • No dishwasher
  • Our muddy road full of massive potholes
  • Toilet trash (This is #1 for me. You can’t flush TP here. It goes in a little bin next to the toilet. This concept has never gotten any less disgusting for me in two years. Emptying it is my least favorite job.)
Vile. You don't want to touch the lid when you use it. But if you get one without a lid, then you can see everyone's... business. I will never, ever miss this.
  • Ants x10000, and scorpions, and bugs in the bed/drinking glasses/food, crawling on our skin
  • Perfectly still, sweltering humidity
  • Super-sweet snacks & drinks (I ordered an iced tea the other day and saw stars with the first sip)
  • Thai Netflix (It’s Netflix, it just has a more limited selection)
  • “sausage” (most sausage served here is really some variation on hot dogs)
  • Hard floors (make my legs & feet ache, break everything that falls on them, and make for horrible acoustics)
  • Terrible overhead lighting everywhere
  • School uniforms (that was Sascha’s contribution)
  • Lack of friends outside of school
  • The Chiang Rai movie theater
  • Distance to grocery stores (it’s basically a road trip)
  • Dirty feet, sticky skin
  • Burning plastic smells from garbage fires
  • Banking/credit card problems
  • Our electrical system, which is basically powered by an extension cord that runs up the hill to our house. It blows out if we use the kitchen sink at the same time as anything else. Also, it gives us random electrical shocks from our microwave, toaster, and metal shower caddy—yes, in the shower
Those two black wires provide our electricity.
  • Creepy old Western men on the prowl for Thai women. *Not all Western men here are creepy! We know plenty of normal guys. But I have lots more detail on this subject that you'll have to get from me in person. Those words are a little too strong here.

And finally,
Things We Won’t Miss… But Kinda Will Miss!
  • Roosters and dumb chickens (my apologies to all the chicken fans out there, but the ones we have around our house are loud and stupid… they run in front of our approaching car 100% of the time)
  • Squatty toilets
  • The language barrier (charades are fun for all parties involved)
  • The culture barrier (it's mind-blowing to be around people who don't know the same cultural references as you, and sometimes a little tiring; but mostly it's cool)
  • Teaching middle schoolers (this is mostly a "will" miss; man, they are sweet)
  • Thai pop music. It sounds like the same two songs everywhere we go. To be fair, if Thai people moved to the US, they’d hear exactly the same thing. (“American music is just ‘Under the Bridge’ and ‘Free Fallin.’” Yes, I have a grudge against those two songs.)
  • All coffee here is only espresso drinks, no drip coffee. I do love this, but sometimes I just want a simple cup of coffee. We have a coffee maker but it was hard to find, and the only one like it in the store.
  • Hanging laundry. I will continue to do this back home, except for towels, and I don’t know how well it will work in the dead of winter. It’s so great to push the drying rack out into the sun and have everything dry in 15 minutes.
So that's that. I am writing this on Tuesday the 6th. Two weeks from right now, we'll be home. I had a tiny flash of panic yesterday. I checked the weather forecast on my phone and realized that very soon, there's going to be a weather forecast for Chiang Rai that we will not be a part of. That was a weird feeling.

Oh! One more thing! I almost forgot to post the latest real estate offering I saw from back home:

 Asking price: $580,000.