Thursday, February 18, 2016

Little School, Big Rewards



This is my 18th year of teaching, and my fourth school. I think I may have figured out the solution, unrealistic though it may be, to “failing” schools in the US. In short, size matters.

Our school is tiny, just 200 students from K-12. Before we got here, I thought it was comically, shockingly tiny. Now I’m rethinking that. 

Each grade consists of roughly 15-25 kids. That’s a broad range, but since the school is only five years old, the classes grow as you go down… there are seven kids in the senior class, but three full kindergarten classes. Oh wait, but “full” for kindergarten means 15, as it should be, not 30. Sophie’s teacher hand writes weekly reports for each kid, because it’s reasonable. Teaching a class of 15 is perfect (the classes I have are from 14-17 kids). It’s enough for a good group dynamic, activities and discussions and such, but not so much that I’m overwhelmed when they all need my help. I can actually plan more complicated things because it won’t exhaust me trying to corral kids like puppies in a basket. I can get a better grasp on who is understanding the concepts, and if a fourth of the class is struggling, it’s easy for me to give them calm, focused attention because there are only four of them. I don’t feel like I’m being pecked to death by a dozen ravenous baby birds. When I’m not spread as thin, I can put more effort into my students and I feel more personally invested. I’m teaching kids I know and care about. Even with my “light” stateside load of 26 kids per class x five classes (California had 40 per class), there were kids whose names I’d forget by July. 

Everyone knows everyone. Even the little kids say hello to me by name, and I see kids of all ages talking and hanging out. Our entire staff fits in one room. There aren’t enough kids to make cliques and there is nowhere for bullies and mean girls to conduct their business. Skipping class is hard. There are a few girls that have the potential for that, and they’d be terrors in a big school, but here? They can’t alienate the other four girls in their grade. They are forced to work out their conflicts, and they do. Each class is a little family. 

The school’s size is fantastic, but it’s also a private school, which means there are other perks. We have 50 minutes for lunch, and the teachers and students eat together on real plates with real silverware. The food (Thai) is mostly healthy, ranging from acceptable to outstanding, and the time is decadent. We can have meaningful conversations without glancing at the clock or rushing off to make copies. We can bring students into the conversations because they’re right there at the same table. 

Another big perk is curriculum. Recently, I sat down with the other two secondary science teachers to discuss what we teach. Over the course of the hour, it dawned on us that the three of us have total control over our curriculum. In April, we’re going to take over an unused office and turn it into a curriculum war room, revamping the whole shebang. We’re going to do something that all of my previous schools could only dream of doing: design a science curriculum from grades 6 through 12 where the subjects actually lead into each other, are age-appropriate and make sense chronologically. Because there are only three of us, and we’re all very flexible people, there should be minimal haggling. I’ve never been so excited to write curriculum in my life. There’s a sentence I never thought I’d say. 

Every week, there is a chapel service for all students (one for primary, one for secondary). This is a quasi-Christian school. Its founders are a fairly religious Korean-Thai couple who are involved in a lot of philanthropy. The school has a lot of religious elements, but none of it is the oppressive, authoritarian, rule-driven, shame-on-you-sinners brand of Christianity (hence my calling it “quasi-”). The weekly chapel service is usually about character and responsibility, given to the kids through inspiring, relatable stories and interactive demonstrations. Chapel also serves as a meeting for school business—announcements, reminders, to give recognition and awards for various things. I am not the least bit religious, but I kind of enjoy chapel. It’s just one more thing to make it feel like a community.

There are, of course, some downsides. A school this size can’t have much to offer in the way of sports or electives. They do a great job with extracurriculars to make up for that. There is no special ed department. Zero services for the learning disabled, most of whom aren’t even identified or diagnosed. The best we can do is lean on our experience to figure out what the kids need (again, advantages of small class size!) and adjust our teaching the way we know how. It’s a very unofficial approach, but I have enough experience accommodating IEPs that I’m confident that I’m doing right by those kids. Socially, the dating pool for the older students is dismal, and they know it. I’ve said before that there are very few English-speaking kids for Sascha to play with, and that’s hard. 

The workload is tremendous. Absolutely tremendous. I do only have four classes, instead of the usual five. However, each is a different subject. Feeling personally invested in these kids, I want to make the lessons good. I feel guilty when I give them worksheets. Planning and carrying out four different classes a day is really flipping hard. Next year will be better when my lessons are in place, but even then, I want to fine-tune (or flat-out re-do) what I’ve done this year. I’ve actually lost sleep thinking about how much I’ve botched the evolution unit I’m wrapping up with my 7th graders. It’s challenging in the best sense, but it is A LOT. I have more work but am somehow less stressed than I used to be. 

This brings me to the Big Rewards part. It’s not so much that we make crazy salaries (it’s roughly $25K a year). The cost of living is so cheap that we can actually do something with our money. I’m still in awe of how often we are able to travel. This weekend I’m going to Chiang Mai, and the entire weekend—bus fare, two nights in a hotel, all meals, even a 3-treatment spa trip—will cost about $150. In April, I’m going to fly down to Bangkok to shop for a weekend, and I found a round-trip flight for $52 (hotel for around $30/night, and yes, it’s a good one!). Back home, we tried to make do with weak “staycations” that never truly scratched the travel itch but still broke the bank.

This post will probably elicit many “Why don’t you stay there?” responses. There are lots of reasons, mainly retirement—you try to save for retirement on $25K. Sure, we could save for a retirement in Thailand, but we couldn’t save enough to retire anywhere else in the world, and I would like to keep my options open. I wrote this quickly and have to wrap this up because I am actually leaving for Chiang Mai soon and I have to plan one more lesson before I leave. I just wanted to get my thoughts out about tiny school greatness. I wonder how that could work back home. What would that look like with the population of kids we had, the ones who swear and fight like spitting cats? What would learning look like with classes of 15? What could field trips be? What would lunch be like, where kids could actually eat slowly and converse with each other and their teachers? Discipline cases could be counseled instead of punished. Kids might feel safer, cared for, and more secure in an environment like that. What would this do for our students as adults?

Friday, February 5, 2016

Thailand is a baaad boy


I wrote this first part a few weeks ago.

I’m currently on a four-night field trip to Chiang Mai. It’s my first overnight field trip since I started teaching 19 years ago. So far so good! The kids are great. They remind me of some of the best parts about being a teacher: nurturing, guiding, and getting to watch them grow into themselves. 

We had a couple hours of free time this afternoon. I debated on taking a nap, such an indulgence as a mother, but decided to go get a massage instead. I didn’t have to walk more than half a block from our hotel before I found a place. Massage parlors (I hate the word “parlor”) are as ubiquitous in Thailand as stray dogs. I’ve been to enough at this point that I know what to expect from the good places and the cheap places. This was the latter, but I’m not picky. Thai massages are almost like physical therapy. They pop and crack me and stretch out my running gear, like that tendon that runs along the outside of the knee—is it the iliotibial band? And the spot where my quadriceps attach to my hip bones, which have been sore lately. 

Anyhoo—so I went in, asked for a Thai massage, and followed the woman upstairs. I was in my usual state, distracted and tightly-wound, so I barely noticed the masseuse. She was tiny, which rarely makes for a good massage. Tiny women have sharp angles and don’t have enough body mass for a good strong massage, so they just poke you with their stabby joints. Also, the clothes she gave me to change into (standard for Thai massage) were made of real silk, which I thought was odd for such a low-budget operation. 

I was fully ten minutes into the massage before I realized that she was wearing a schoolgirl uniform. I’m laughing now as I type this. I mentally smacked my head and thought, oh dear, am I going to get a little surprise with this massage? Is that even a thing with women customers? Fortunately, my little (thirty-something) schoolgirl stayed chaste. As I was leaving, I noticed another masseuse wearing a short red kimono. Ai yi yi. I don’t think I’ll be sending any of the students down that way…

Yesterday we went to an elephant sanctuary (Lampang, a different one from the video—there are dozens of them up here). I am falling in love with those animals. At one point, they were walking in a line up the road, and I felt myself getting teary because they’re so beautiful and gentle. This weeping-beauty phenomenon has been happening more often as I get older. Touring some ancient temples today, I felt it again. Their beauty was just unspeakable. This is, without a doubt, the most beautiful place I have ever lived.
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Okay, now it’s several weeks later. Teaching four different classes is kicking my ass. It’s challenging in a good way, but it reminds me of my first year teaching. I have homework every night. The energy it takes to switch gears so thoroughly from, say, teaching about moon phases one class, to conducting a lab on natural selection the next hour, then moving on to reproductive anatomy… and giving it 100% in every class… I can’t believe I pull it off every day. It’s intense, and I go through brief cycles of burnout. 

Fortunately, we’re in Thailand. I just planned our April vacation. We’ll be going to an island with white sand beaches for five days, with a little time in Bangkok on either end. Total cost of the trip, all hotels and airfare/boats/buses, for all four of us? About $1100. Now that’s how you combat burnout! I can absolutely work this hard if I can see a beach more often than once a decade.

Some thoughts as of late:

On the aforementioned school trip, I had a long conversation with a fellow teacher who has been here for about a decade. We discussed the remoteness of Chiang Rai. I said if I was really famous, I’d love it here because it’s a nice dark corner of the world in which to hide. But as I said it I realized… it’s a dark corner of the world in which to hide. Now that we’ve been here 7 months, we’ve scratched the surface a little. I’ve heard stories of mafia bosses. We know one or two people with questionable stories that don’t add up (disclaimer: none are FB friends, so it’s probably not you). We’ve seen and heard many cases of ethically dubious financial activity. We don’t ask questions. There’s a movie, “Lord of War,” about a shady arms dealer who spent some time hiding out here in Thailand (that part isn’t in the movie though). One of our friends once played poker with a sketchy guy down in Bangkok… who turned out to be Joran Van Der Sloot. We went to a wine tasting recently. The room was full of local expats (nobody we work with), all of whom looked like… well, like Table 9 from The Wedding Singer. An interesting and diverse assortment, to put it nicely. We can’t help but wonder how they ended up here. What do they do for work? It’s not Bangkok, or even Chiang Mai, the obvious choices. I am not lumping sociopaths in with the merely physically odd and socially awkward. But, you know.

It’s a dark corner of the world. Great hiding place.

That said…

I have a crush on Thailand. It’s a whirlwind romance. It takes my breath away and makes me miss it when I haven’t even left yet. I swoon over its exotic green beauty, and make excuses for the dodgy bits. It quickens my pulse and makes me feel more alive than I’ve felt in years. It hasn’t always treated us well, considering how we’re getting way overcharged on rent and were talked into buying that awful car (screwed both times by westerners, it’s worth noting), and we forgive it. It’s a crush. But like anything fast and hard, it’s not meant for the long haul. It’s Mr. Right Now, and it’s exciting and fun like a gorgeous but damaged bad boy with a motorcycle.

Hey. Forget about your responsibilities and your pension back home. Run away with me. I'm sweaty and beautiful, dirty and mysterious. Sometimes I smell like hot spoiled fish and sewage, but other times I smell like wood smoke and frangipani. You can't take me home to meet your parents, and I have serious issues, but for now? Hop in.